Esperance

November 9, 2020

PhotographyBobby Bense | Helen Janneson Bense

EditingHelen Janneson Bense

Location – Kepa Kurl/Esperance, Western Australia

Where to stayWave Rock (half way point between Perth and Esperance | West Beach | Blue Haven

Outfit Details

Dresses – Indigo Maxi | Serene Maxi | Salsa Leora Maxi | Top/Skirt set (similar)

Jackets – custom art by Deadly Denim X Cungelella | Unreal Fur (Faux) jacket (similar)

Swim – One piece

Bag – Miomojo Giorgia Bucket Bag (vegan, cruelty free, sustainably made from apple skin) Can also be used as a backpack

Picnic rug – The Throw Down Traveller Throw

As we set off on this unfamiliar journey, to this pristine, remote part of WA we’ve longed to visit, our hearts yearned for the wild, for the joy that comes with deeply connecting with nature. It’s a connection we all need to thrive and survive in this world. Being in nature is where we come home to ourselves, our very existence intertwined. It was a reminder of how we must treasure and protect our wild places and it’s vital biodiversity.

Our first stop on our road trip was Wave Rock. In the middle of what felt like nowhere is this 2700 million year old, 15 metre high, wave shaped granite rock. Viewing this ancient and sacred place at sunset was breathtaking, with colour and light dancing upon the wave. Wave Rock known as Katter Kich by the Indigenous Ballardong People is known as a keniny (dancing) ground. Nearby are a collection of 450 ancient rock paintings telling the story of a local Aboriginal legend at Mulka’s Cave.

We stayed in a lovely, simple cottage right by Wave Rock surrounded by wildflowers and the most amazing natural salt water pool. It was so perfect after a long drive to float and soak up the natural salty goodness.

After a wonderful nights sleep we rose with the sun and made our way to Esperance. This coastal town is known as Kepa Kurl to the Noongar People. Kepa means wave and Kurl means boomerang; “where the wave lies like a boomerang”. I spent hours watching the waves here and noticed incredible patterns and shapes that are so unique to this part of the world. The landscape even shows climate change since the days of the Ice Age. It’s quite a spectacular and majestic sight as you drive along this coastline. You’ll be struck with the vivid crystal clear turquoise blue of the waters. It surely is the clearest water I’ve ever seen, and that includes the Maldives!

Esperance really is a nature lovers paradise. If you love the beach, ocean, surfing, wildflowers, wildlife and hiking it’s your place! I’ve put together a list here of must visit beaches as we spent every waking hour exploring. We stayed in the most amazing Airbnb overlooking West Beach. We could hear the waves from here and watch the sunrise and set from every window. We even had a bedroom ocean view! This is a great beach for surfing, swimming and whale watching. Even though the water was pretty cold when we visited we still enjoyed swimming in the protected lagoon with our wetsuits on. In summer I’m certain you won’t need a wetsuit.

First and number one beach stop is Lucky Bay and Hellfire Bay in Cape Le Grand National Park. Lucky Bay is known as one of the best beaches in the world and it has very friendly wild kangaroos visit the beach daily. The sand really is so white it could blind you, and the water so turquoise and clear. The biggest attraction here is of course the kangaroos. My experience here brought mixed feelings about this. While it’s so cute to see them, some of the tourists hovering, grabbing and touching the kangaroos was distressing to see. My children stayed completely away in protest out of respect for the kangaroos, choosing not to have a photographic memory, but instead to enjoy seeing them and allowing them to move about in peace. If you find some patience and allow them to move freely they will come and investigate you, generally searching for food. It’s absolutely vital for the sake of their health and wellbeing you do not ever feed them. Luckily we didn’t see any of this happening while we were there. As far as timing to see them I think it’s just up to luck and patience. I read a lot of conflicting information and many other friends shared their experiences. Every single one was different. We arrived at Lucky bay around 8am for a beach day of kayaking, exploring and hoping we’d see some kangaroos. It was around 2pm when a couple ventured onto the shores, focused mostly around the pop up food truck.

Besides the kangaroos, this spot is absolutely stunning to walk around the rocks, take a kayak out to explore the bay and laze on the beautiful white sand. Close by is Hellfire bay which has the most incredible blue waters. I watched the waves for an hour while my family when on a bouldering expedition. It’s a nice quiet beach with picnic tables in the shade to enjoy lunch.

West of Esperance, and just minutes from our Airbnb was Blue Haven beach. This beach is very calm, protected, so blue, and perfect for dolphin spotting, swimming and stand up paddle boarding. You just need to be able to get your board up and down those stairs. It’s a mission, but definitely possible. And worth it once you’re out in that beautiful water.

From here it’s so fun to beach hop. You’ve got Twilight beach which is so fun for some rock jumping into the pristine waters. Make sure to take a drive further along this coast to 10 and 11 mile beach. 11 mile beach was one of our favourite spots with a huge lagoon on either side of the stair entrance. It’s a great spot to watch the sunset from. Another amazing spot for sunset is the Rotary Lookout overlooking West Beach. A beautiful spot for exploring the wildflowers during Spring. Bring a picnic rug and soak up those expansive views.

We still have many spots to visit. Next time we’d love to hike Frenchman’s Peak in Cape Le Grand National Park. When tours are up and running again we’d like to take a scenic flight to Middle Island and see the Pink Lake from above. We are yet to explore more of 10 mile beach, Wharton beach and Wylie Bay. Sadly a local surfer was lost at Wylie as we were on our way there. Out of respect we stayed clear of this area. It was a tragic loss for the town and his family.

If you’ve been to Esperance and have any other must see spots please leave them in the comments! It’s a true natural, wild wonder of our world and I hope it always stays that way.

With love and gratitude,

Helen xx

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